A Warmness That I Miss: Hanok, Sunshine, New Family

Mei 23, 2011

I didn't expect that living overseas will give me hospitality as much as what I get from my home country, Indonesia.

But I was a little bit wrong.

In my second month in Korea, I've been accepted as a member of 2011 Hanok Stay Program, held by Korean Tourism Organization. This annual program helped foreign students from any countries to feel cultural experience in Jongno-Gu, Seoul, where there were hundreds of rebuilt Hanok--Korean Traditional House. After a long stupid first journey to Seoul by KTX with my New Zealand friend, Rebecca, and after dropped a cup of coffee in an Ahjussi's outfit in a restaurant, we (finally) arrived at 9.30 am sharp in KTO. We made it, I might add, without any help from Korean or information center. Thanks to a brilliant transportation arrangement, that could help you find where to go among 6 different subway lines with hundreds of stations.

With a help of Ms. Park's English translation--a 55 or more years old attractive lady (I should write more about how Korean lady can be like forever young!)--we started our journey. First thing crossed my head when I arrived at a traditional but modern (?) Hanok village was: This is what I looking for!

Bukchon Village: This View Appeared in a scene of Attack on The Pin Up Boys,
A Teenage Korean Drama of Super Junior (Seriously, just found it out!)

Save Hanok!

What surprised me was Korean Government's efforts to save their traditional houses. I'm pretty sure we are all know that Korea had a super-fast economic growth in few last decades. Like any other industrial country, they need more land and more area to build more companies, factories, or branches. I think they didn't face such an ethical dilemma when they decided to ruin hundreds of original Hanok in this area. But it didn't take long time until they realized that they need to rebuilt the Hanok that they've destroyed before.

And now, there they are. You can still enjoy or even stay in a real Hanok eventough they are modernize with electronic key, western-styled kitchen and bathroom, and any other hi-tech utensils inside. Nowadays, it become a very main tourism object that will also increase the national income through tourism.

What can we learn? A big country will never ever forget their history and culture (Soekarno).

A side of 100 years Hanok in Jongno-Gu

Jongno-Gu From East to West

The district we visited was located in the heart of the capital city, Seoul. It means we were in center of the center of Korea. Another good thing, it was sunny and warm even though Seoul was still on the very beginning of spring, which was supposed to be quite cold. First impression of this capital city was modern, clean, busy--not as crowded as Jakarta but much busier than Daejeon-- and full of stylish residence! Seemed like I could have found a Korean actor or actress while walking around. (My sister must be very happy with it :D). After a nice free lunch, KTO prepare a traditional cuisine making program in Kimchi World. We made the first Kimchi and Teokbokki--rice cake in spicy sauce--of our own!

Well, who doesn't know Kimchi? Not everyone can handle their sour taste but everybody should know the healthy nutrition of this world healthiest food, which can fulfil 80% of our Vitamin C daily needs, vitamin A, B, calcium, carotene and any other health substance to protect us from influenza to cancer. And we made them! In Kimchi world, the chef helped us to marinate our Kimchi and keep them in their incubator, wait for few weeks or months for them to born, in other words, fully fermented. The more you keep them, the more it will be tasty--if you know what I mean :)

Insa-Dong and Sachoom theatrical dance show was the next two. About Sachoom, no doubt, they were fabolous! Even though the story line was predictable like any other teenage drama, they covered it with fantastic dances and lots of funny scenes. This is the first time for me--and perhaps some audience--to stand up from our sit and dance in their command.

Again, I was surprised that I could find another similarity between here and my country. We went to a traditional market which really looked like the one I usually go with my mother, every morning in my home town. I will always love traditional market more than a supermarket. I mean, where else you can talk directly to the seller and bargain? You might be tired of facing the machine in the modern market, but not here. This market, or Gwang-Jang, was full of people but arranged neatly, easily helped us to find which direction to go and where to find the main or the exit gate.

It's Not Just About Hanok

And, yes, it was not just about Hanok. But the people around and inside it. After an Arirang show with traditional flute, drum and dance, in one of Hanok in Bukchon, our host family picked us up. My host family with their zero ability in English, tried so hard to keep us comfortable. They, who live in their small and lovely Hanok, call us 'our grandchild' and made us felt truly like home. Their healthy way of life shown in their way of cooking and their everyday exercise by walking up to a hill nearby--and we made it!--where we could see the half of Seoul view from above.

Haraboji and Halmoni

Thanks to KTO, we almost discovered all of the most popular spots in Seoul, from Insa-Dong souvenir and art center to Bukchon village, in 2 days. There was no need to be worry about an useless trip cause we learned a lot! I used my basic Korean ability to talk to the people in Gwang-Jang, my host family, and the owner of traditional craft's house, learned how to make the souvenirs and learned Korean history under Japanese rule. But the most impressive one for me was seeing Korean daily life directly, and being a part of it. Or as halmoni said, being a part of their family.

Four months may not be enough, but quite nice to admit Korea as my second home country. So, when I get another chance to go to Korea, I can say: "I will come home" instead of "I will go".

Captured Moments of Hanok Homestay Experience 2011